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What is the body’s largest organ? If you answered the liver, better luck next time! It’s your skin, the outer covering that protects your body from pathogens, regulates your body temperature, and enables your sense of touch. The skin, hair, nails, oil glands, and sweat glands are part of what physicians call the integumentary.

Your skin is made of three layers:

The epidermis is the visible part of the skin, the top protective layer. The amount of melanin in your skin determines the color of your hair, skin, and eyes. In addition to keeping germs from entering your body, the epidermis generates new skin cells by the thousands, every day.

The dermis is the middle layer of skin. It contains the proteins collagen and elastin, which keep your skin strong and flexible. The roots of all the hair on your head and body are located in the dermis, as are the nerve receptors for your sense of touch. The dermis also contains oil glands, sweat glands, and blood vessels.

The hypodermis connects layers of skin to muscles and bones and helps regulate body temperature.

Keeping your skin clean and healthy is important for your overall health and keeping it looking its best as you age is a priority for most of us. Knowing which products to use can help.

Navigating skin care products

The skin care industry is large and lucrative, and many types of products are available. Each of the product categories below serves a specific function in your skincare routine.

• Cleansers. Available as foams, gels, creams, or oils, cleansers are formulated to clean the skin of oil and dirt, as well as makeup
• Exfoliators. Designed to remove dead skin cells and stimulate the formation of new cells, exfoliators often contain scrub particles or acid chemicals
• Eye Creams. These are usually thicker and richer than regular moisturizers and are used on the sensitive skin around your eyes to moisturize and reduce puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines
• Face Masks. These intensive treatments are applied and left on for a prescribed amount of time to brighten, detoxify, or hydrate the skin
• Lip Balms. Usually available in tubes or pots, balms hydrate the lips, protect them from dryness, and prevent cracking
• Moisturizers. This daily use product hydrates the skin and seals in moisture
• Serums. These are concentrated formulas designed for deep penetration to target specific skincare concerns such as wrinkles, dark spots, or dryness
• Spot Treatments. These contain concentrated ingredients such benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or sulfur and are used to treat specific blemishes, dark spots, or other specific concerns
• Toners. Used after cleansing to tighten pores and balance the skin's pH, toners may have hydrating, exfoliating, or astringent effects depending on your specific needs

Investigating the Ingredients

With all the advertising out there, it’s hard to know which products have actual cosmetic benefits. However, some skincare ingredients have been researched and scientifically proven to be beneficial for various skin concerns:

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) exfoliate the skin and can improve skin texture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and reduce acne
• Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHAs) helps reduce inflammation as it penetrates the pores to treat acne and blackheads
• Ceramides are lipids (fats) used to increase moisture retention in dry, sensitive skin
• Hyaluronic Acid promotes moisture retention to plump and hydrate the skin, improve its texture, and smooth out fine lines
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) nourishes the skin to boost its barrier function, regulate oil production, brighten skin tone, and tighten pores
• Peptides are amino acids that help support the skin’s structure, stimulating collagen production, to improve firmness and elasticity
• Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives with multiple benefits, including:
  • Enhancing cell turnover
  • Improving skin texture
  • Stimulating cell turnover and collagen production
  • Fading hyperpigmentation
  • Reducing acne
• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that helps protect against UV damage and boosts collagen production

The safety and efficacy of a specific ingredient varies depending on its usage and concentration. A dermatologist or licensed cosmetician can help steer you in the right direction based on your skin type and specific concerns. Always read the label when you try a new product, especially if you have known allergies to certain ingredients. Not all products can be used together, so be sure to talk to your provider to understand what your skincare routine should include.

Unhelpful or Unhealthy

Certain skincare ingredients have been flagged by dermatologists as potentially harmful:

• Coal Tar, used in shampoos and scalp treatments intended to combat dandruff and psoriasis, has been associated with cancer risk
• Formaldehyde, sometimes used as a preservative in cosmetics, causes irritation and allergic reactions and has been classified as a carcinogen by the World Health Organization and the Environmental Protection Agency.
• Mineral Oil is a petroleum byproduct that can clog pores and interfere with skin's ability to eliminate toxins
• Oxybenzone is a chemical used in certain sunscreens that has been linked to hormone disruption and may impact the reproductive system
• Parabens, which may be used as a preservative in cosmetics, can mimic estrogen and has been linked to hormone disruption, reproductive issues, and even breast cancer
• Phthalates, chemical ingredients in many fragrances and plastics, have been linked to hormone disruption, developmental and reproductive issues, and potential damage to the liver, lungs, and kidneys
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are surfactants that can cause skin irritation and trigger allergic reactions. SLS has also been linked to organ toxicity
• Triclosan, an antibacterial agent used in cleansers and hand sanitizers, can disrupt hormone balance and has been linked to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria
• Toluene, often found in nail polish and hair dye, can cause headaches, dizziness, and neurological damage and should not be inhaled or absorbed through the skin

The Most Essential Skin Care Product of All

Whether your skin care routine is elaborate or as simple as water and a non-drying soap, there’s one skin care product everyone should use: sunscreen. Use a broad-spectrum SPF sunscreen of at least 30 to protect your skin from UV rays, which can lead to premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer. Avoid sunscreens containing oxybenzone.

If you are concerned about the health or appearance of your skin, talk to your dermatologist at your next annual screening. There are many effective prescription products that are available to help you protect and maintain your skin’s appearance. (PSA: everybody should have an annual skin screen to identify potential skin cancer and treat it as early as possible.) If you need .

This article appeared in the Summer 2024 edition of the HealthPerks newsletter.